Pip's Plate

After the brilliant success of our first Gourmet Club meeting back in January, I immediately went home and started scavenging the internet for braised short rib recipes – because it doesn’t get much better than that. And man oh man….it doesn’t.

Nicole and I were serving the main course this time, which also meant we would be hosting it at my house. I first thought an Asian inspired short rib recipe would be exactly what I was looking for. Until I found this recipe: Brasato al Barolo (Braised Short Ribs with Pumpkin Orzo and Horseradish Gremolata). YUM.

Then I thought…wait a second, this is from Mario Batali’s restaurant Babbo cookbook…hmmm…why does that sound familiar? Then it dawned on me! I finished a book at the end of November titled “Heat” – which is now one of my favorite books – about Bill Buford working for Mario Batali and traveling through Italy. Well, this dish is mentioned in great detail. I looked it up, laughed at the descriptions (it’s violently vulgar), and said “sign me up! this is the dish!”

I read some more about the region this dish comes from – Emilia Romagna in northern Italy and discovered this from wikipedia:

The city of Bologna is famous for its superb cuisine. Perhaps less well known is the fact that it lies at the heart of Emilia Romagna, a region celebrated both in Italy and abroad for the range and quality of its culinary delights. From the Adriatic coast of Ravenna and Forlì to the inland plains and river vallleys of Parma, Piacenza, and Modena, Emila Romagna is richly blessed with prime produce and ingenious cooks.

We preordered short ribs (not flank style but the cut with one bone per rib) and picked them up early that Saturday along with all the other ingredients, then went back to my place to get everything prepped. Have you ever grated fresh horseradish? It is STRONG. And it’s fleshy and weird – it kind of creeped me out a bit.

Either way, the dish was hands down the best dish I’ve ever made. It was simple enough to do again, although somewhat time intensive as it requires a long time in the oven. Although the recipe says to braise at 375 for 2 hours, the next time I would braise at 350 for 3 hours.

The table setting had an Italian theme with reds, greens, and yellows.

Here is the menu:

First Course

Antipasto platter of assorted meats, cheeses, olives, and breads

Paired with: Tommasi Poggio al Tufo Rompicollo, Maremma Tuscana, 2004

Second Course

Tagliatelle with Mussels, Clams and Pesto

Paired with: Tamellini Soave, 2005 (excellent wine)

Third Course

Braised Short Ribs with Pumpkin Orzo and Horseradish Gremolata

Paired with: Josetta Saffirio Barolo, 2002

*A special note about the wine: there is this fellow who suggests wine at the place I love to go (Hennepin Lake Liquors in Uptown – their selection and prices are unbeatable) who, in the past, has had a very low success rate at suggesting wines for me. My strategy for Sat? Avoid him AT ALL COSTS. Well…that unfortunately didn’t happen as another worker pointed me directly to him and there was no one else in the store. F*****ck. He ended up suggesting this wine and it was excellent. Thank god. It was $40/bottle and we bought 2. Josetta Saffirio learned how to make wine from her mom and dad, who are both professors of winemaking in Italy. This is her second or third vintage and only makes 3,000 cases a year.

Fourth Course

Various Cheeses: Taleggio served with honeycomb, Pecorino ginepro served with balsamic reduction and olive oil, Sottocenere al Tartufo, Blu del Moncenisio with fig pear spread, Valsesia Toma with fig pear spread, La Tur with honeycomb

Paired with: Ruvei Barbera d’Alba, 2005

Fifth Course

Panna Cotta with fresh strawberries and blackberries

Paired with: Felsina vin Santo Chianti Classico, 1999

recipes after the jump

Tagliatelle with Mussels, Clams and Pesto

serves 2 (we doubled this and it was MORE than enough for 10 people – next time I would not double it for a 5 course meal)

from Bon Appetit June 2000 on epicurious

12 littleneck clams, scrubbed

12 mussels, scrubbed, debearded

1 cup dry white wine

8 oz tagliatelle or linguine (if you can find fresh or make your own, go for it!)

6T pesto (you could purchase this, but homemade is so much better)

1/4 cup sliced drained oil-packed sun-dried tomatoes

14 t dried crushed red pepper

Combine clams, mussels and wine in heavy large pot; bring to boil over medium-high heat. Cover pot; cook until shellfish open, about 7 minutes (discard any that do not open – they were already dead when you put them in and you will seriously regret trying one of these!). Using tongs, transfer shellfish to bowl; cover with foil to keep warm. Reserve shellfish juices.

Meanwhile, cook pasta in medium pot of boiling salted water until just tender (dry pasta will take around 8 minutes while fresh pasta will take around 3 minutes).

Drain pasta, return to same pot. Add reserved shellfish juices, pesto, sun-dried tomatoes and crushed red pepper. Toss over medium heat just until sauce coats pasta. Season with salt and pepper. Divide pasta among bowls, top with shellfish and serve.

Make sure to place an empty bowl on the table for discarded shells. To make this a little more exciting of an experience, when you serve this, freshly grate a hard, aged Italian cheese using a microplane grater per each person’s taste – a good parmesan reggiano or pecorino romano would be perfect.

Braised Short Ribs with Pumpkin Orzo and Horseradish Gremolata

Serves 4 (to make for 10, increase the ribs recipe by 2.5 for each ingredient; double the orzo recipe; leave the gremolata as is)

from Babbo Cookbook a la Leite’s Culinaria

SHORT RIBS

1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil

four 16-ounce beef short ribs

kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

2 carrots, peeled and roughly chopped

1 onion (white or yellow), roughly chopped

2 celery stalks (including the leaves – that’s where the flavor is!), roughly chopped

5 cloves garlic, thinly sliced

2 cups Barolo or other full-bodied wine (rule of thumb: there are 3 cups, 1 cup=8 fl oz, in a 750ml bottle of wine, so if you’re doubling or tripling this recipe, you’ll need 2 bottles of wine; this is different than getting five 6oz glasses of wine in a bottle)

one 16-oz can peeled tomatoes, crushed by hand, with their juices (I like Muir Glen the best)

1 cup beef stock

1/2 bunch thyme

1/2 bunch rosemary

1/2 bunch oregano

GREMOLATA

leaves from 1 bunch of flat leaf Italian parsley

zest of 2 lemons, cut into julienne strips

1/4 pound fresh horseradish, grated

PUMPKIN ORZO

1/2 pound pumpkin or butternut squash, seeded and peeled

kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

2 T extra virgin olive oil

2 T honey

2 T balsamic vinegar

1 cup orzo

1 cup chicken stock

PREPARATION

MAKE THE SHORT RIBS

1. Preheat the oven to 375°F (190°C). (NOTE: I would adjust this to 350 for 3 hours)

2. In a large, heavy-bottomed skillet or Dutch oven, heat the olive oil over high heat until smoking. Season the ribs with salt and pepper and cook them over high heat until deep brown on all sides, about 15 minutes total. Remove the short ribs to a plate and set aside. Add the carrots, onion, celery, and garlic to the pan and cook over high heat until browned and softened, about 4 minutes. Season with salt and pepper and stir in the red wine, tomatoes and juices, beef stock, and herbs, scraping the bottom of the pan with a wooden spoon to dislodge browned bits. Bring the mixture to a boil and return the short ribs to the pan. Cover with aluminum foil and place in the oven. Cook for 2 hours, or until the meat is very tender and literally falling off the bones. (NOTE: I would adjust this to 350 for 3 hours)

3. (NOTE: This is an additional note from Heat) When the ribs are done, remove from braising liquid and place on a pan. You could cover with foil to keep it warm. Strain the liquid to remove all the chunks of veggies and herbs. Place strained liquid into a pan and bring to a boil on the stove. Reduce by half – this is going to make the most wonderful gravy of your life.

MAKE THE GREMOLATA

In a small bowl, combine the parsley, lemon zest, and horseradish and toss loosely by hand.

4. Divide the pumpkin orzo evenly among four warmed bowls. Place one short rib in each bowl, top with a little of the pan juices and a handful of the gremolata, and serve immediately.

MAKE THE ORZO

1. Cut the pumpkin or squash into 3 or 4 evenly sized pieces. Season with salt and pepper, drizzle with the olive oil, and wrap in foil. Roast in the 375°F (190°C) oven for 30 to 45 minutes, or until very soft. Remove from the oven and allow to cool for 5 minutes, then place the cooked squash in the bowl of a food processor. Add the honey, balsamic vinegar, and salt and pepper and pulse to form a relatively smooth purée. Set aside.

2. Bring 3 quarts of water to a boil and add 2 tablespoons of salt. Set up an ice bath nearby. Cook the orzo in the boiling water for 3 minutes, to blanch but not cook through. Drain the orzo and plunge it into the ice bath. Once cooled, drain it and lay it out on a baking sheet to dry.

3. Bring the chicken stock to a boil in a 12-inch sauté pan. Add the orzo and squash purée and cook over high heat, stirring frequently, until the chicken stock is fully absorbed by the orzo. Season with salt and pepper and serve.